Alto Adige, a small, mountainous sub-region (part of the greater Trentino-Alto Adige) in the northwest of Italy, has always had more in common with its Germanic neighbors to the north than any of its fellow Italian counterparts. This is because, historically, the land on the northern (alto, or high) banks of the Adige river has long been part of the Austrian landscape, officially under Austrian rule since the Middle Ages until 1919, when it was annexed to Italy at the end of World War I. The Treaty of Versailles may have officially changed the government of this territory, but certain historical, cultural, and linguistic traditions persist. German is the common tongue, seen on road signs and menus and wine bottles all over this unique patch of Italian countryside.
In addition to oceans of ever-popular pinot grigio, it is the white wines, made primarily from German varietals, gewürztraminer, sylvaner, müller thurgau, for which the region is well-known. Despite perception to the contrary (due, in large part, to importers favoring the regional white wines) more red wine is actually produced in Alto Adige than white. For centuries, the farmer-winemakers who work these northern vineyards have made the wines they themselves want to drink: generally lighter bodied, fruit and mineral-driven reds made from the native schiava grape. These are easy-drinking wines, naturally refreshing with bright acidity and mountain minerality that compliment (by contrast) the heavier, Germanic fare of the region (schnitzel, gulasch, knodel with speck, etc.). The vast majority of these wines are consumed locally, with limited export to Germany and Austria (and to a much lesser extent, the United States).
With the body of a pinot noir, delicate and graceful, wine made from the schiava grape would no doubt enjoy increased popularity, were it more widely available outside of its remote mountain home. Bright and fresh, generally meant to be drunk within a year or two of bottling, these wines are natural picnic pairings, versatile and complementary to a wide variety of foods. Generally no more than 12.5% ABV, they are soft and easy-drinking, enjoyable at the beginning of a meal any time of the year, or served with a slight chill as a simple summer sipper.
Try a lovely schiava red (at publication time we had three different versions on hand at Dave’s Fresh Pasta), produced by a co-operative of small farmer-producers under the name “St. Magdalener” and toast some interesting and tasty history-in-a-glass. As the Germans say: P’rost!
-Sam.








